The mountains are calling!

We knew where we were going, we ended up at the right place, we just didn’t expect the hike would make us think twice before we ever sign up for long day hikes! There are two day hikes in Yosemite I have done so far that felt like I was never going to make it back; a failed attempt to summit Mount Lyell, the hike up to Clouds Rest (CR) from Happy Isles (HI) trailhead. The hike in itself is totally worth it, as the views from atop of CR are some of the best in the valley, but if you want do this in a day you need some level of insanity in you!

In my groups preparation to ascend Mount Whitney in a day, we were researching hikes in Yosemite that had good mileage and decent elevation gain that would help us prepare. CR stood up as a challenge and we didn’t think twice before deciding to hike it in early June, on one of the hottest days. We learnt a very important lesson on this hike — Never lay below the sun at high elevation, it just sucks your energy out of you, and you wouldn’t even know it!

Our day started early at 4:30 am as we had about a 90 minute drive to reach Yosemite Valley. It was about 7 am when we started our hike and we were determined to complete it before dark (little did we know). CR hike follows the mist trail up until Nevada falls and then JMT until it reaches the junction of CR Trail (a half mile past half dome junction and JMT). The mist trail is true to its name, and never disappoints you when hiking up the steep steps of Vernal Falls. You are sweating and puffing when climbing up, and the mist from Vernal Falls is gently hitting your face which makes the effort you are putting in totally worth it. Before even we knew, we had reached the top of Vernal falls and were making good time. We took our first break at Vernal falls, before we could head up to Nevada Falls.

There are 2 routes to reach the top of Nevada falls (the trail splits shortly after Vernal falls footbridge); follow the mist trail to Vernal falls and then take the grueling steps up Nevada Falls, or follow the JMT. After a short break we proceeded towards Nevada Falls. The stretch up to Nevada falls starts with a gradual elevation, before you reach a series of switchback steps that take a toll on your knees. The only thing working for you on this stretch of torture is the view of beautiful Nevada Falls. Soak the beauty in, take one step at a time, and before you realize you would be on top of Nevada Falls.

As we approached the top of Nevada Falls we met some backpackers who were on their final stretch of completing the JMT and were taking the steps back to Happy Isles. We took our morning breakfast break at the top of Nevada Falls and waited for everyone in the group to arrive. We slowly started our way towards our next break point which was supposed to be Half Dome (HD) junction. The stretch of trail from Nevada Falls Junction to Little Yosemite Valley (LYV) is flat, but on a hot day it can get tough, as there is no shade until you reach the LYV campground. From LYV campground junction the trail ascends towards HD junction through a series of switchbacks.

You can catch glimpses of HD before you reach the HD junction. From HD junction you take a right and go towards CR. Up until this point we met a lot of folks on the trail and everyone was headed towards HD, but none towards CR. We slowly made our way towards CR junction where JMT splits. We had made good pace to reach this point and were confident to make it back to HI before the last sunlight (again, little did we know). As we continued to CR, this stretch of trail felt like it would never end, and made us feel like the trail until HD junction was nothing. Everyone in our group split up between this stretch and we would not see each other until we reached the base of CR. The stretch of trail passes through forest and doesn’t open up until you are closer to CR.

The final stretch of CR is flatter and gains little elevation until you reach the base of CR. The trail from the base of CR to the top has some decent Class II scramble. A part of our group started experiencing altitude sickness by the time they reached the base of CR. If you ever feel like altitude sickness is hitting you head back before it gets worse, as the mountain isn’t going anywhere and you can do this another day!

We slowly started making our way from the base towards the top of CR. As we made to the top of CR we could experience the 360 degree view of the valley, snow covered mountains, Tenaya lake, and the thing called “Half Dome”. We soaked in the views, took a lot of photos, and were so relieved to be on top. We waited for a better part of an hour to 90 minutes for the rest of the group to show up, and that was the biggest mistake we would ever do on top of a cliff. We were so exhausted by the uphill hike, we just put our hats on face and took a nap, and did not realize that the sun was directly hitting us. If you ever decide to spend some time on top of CR (or any high altitude mountain) make sure you have some shade, or be prepared for the wrath of that direct sunlight.

Once everyone in our group made it to the top, we gave them 10 minutes to rest and headed down towards Yosemite valley. This was the first time we realized, there is no way we would ever make it to HI before its dark. It was close to 4:00 PM before we could start our descent towards HI. We slowly picked up our pace to make up time and were in the stretch of trail covered with forest within no time. As we descended down the forest we started realizing that the sun had sucked all our energy and we were starting to feel it. By the time we reached half dome junction our energy levels had dropped and we knew we had to rest. We kept pushing ourselves until we reached the Nevada Falls junction. We waited for everyone in the group to reach Nevada falls so we could continue towards HI together, so we don’t get lost in the dark.

We took a break at Nevada falls junction and realized the sun was setting on us. We did not want to risk ourselves on the steep steps so decided to take the JMT towards vernal falls footbridge. When I look back I am still amazed as to how we made it from Nevada falls to HI, as we could no longer feel our legs and had to drag every step to make it. By the time we reached the Vernal falls footbridge everyone in the group had their headlights out and were navigating in the dark. As we reached mist trail we could see people coming down the steps of Vernal falls with the help of phone lights and it was not fun. Don’t try to come down the steps when its dark as the steps get slippery and visibility is poor during night time.

All we could think while we were getting down was our dinner, and lucky for us, one person from our group headed back from HD junction so we could call him up and provide instructions to get us food. The final stretch from Vernal falls footbridge to HI was never ending, it felt like we were never going to make it. It was close to 10 PM when we finally reached HI trailhead. It was a tiring, exhausting and an eventful day. The pizza we had after we reached HI was one of the most fulfilling meals I have ever had! Our journey did not end here as we had to drive another 90 minutes to reach our vacation rental house in Groveland, and that makes for another good story!

Difficulty – Strenuous Insanity Level – 5 Distance ~ 22 miles (in theory) Elevation ~ 6000 ft Time ~ 15 hours
Directions – Happy Isles Trailhead – Mist Trail – Vernal Falls Footbridge – Vernal Falls – Nevada Falls – Little Yosemite Valley – Half Dome Junction – JMT – Clouds Rest Trailhead – Clouds Rest Trail – Clouds Rest – Nevada Falls – JMT – Vernal falls footbridge – Happy Isles Trailhead